Wednesday, May 5, 2010

First Knockdown-First Injury

We just had our first knockdown about an hour ago. TBB was full of water with three crew bailing and one on the helm. We are still in gale conditions with 5-6 metre seas and 35 knots wind from the south east. I have dislocated my little toe during the knockdown - now OK but swollen and bruised. 

We are needing to bail every 5-10 minutes as the waves continue to break in the cockpit. The watertight bulkhead is holding and morale on board is chipper! It was a tough night with heavy weather, pitch black and we had two close calls with reefs. We surfed at 15-20 knots between two reefs. The seas are bigger than they should be and we are all thinking there must be a weather system out there which is stirring up the sea state. We’ll continue on. 

The Talisker Bounty Boat is a great boat and handling the conditions really well. We're heading due north to hopefully anchor in a sheltered position  - if we can’t we will continue through Bligh's passage.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

"Bligh is Bailing"


Conditions are challenging but fun at the moment with seas up to 4.5mtrs,30kts wind from astern and at times we are surfing at 10kts with just the main up...we are bailing regularly with some seas coming over the side into the cockpit..nothing to worry about, just a few gallons at a time but very regular Speed is our friend in handling these steep seas. We average about 6kts so you will see us making good time on the map..maybe too good? the interesting challenge will be tonight..we are not racing but just trying to keep the boat safe so we do not want top slow down or present the boat side onto the as some are breaking and we like staying dry.

All this began to build last night and when I was on watch last night there was no moon, stars and a big rain squall with huge wind shift of 150 degrees and then rain and 30kts,,all contributing to total disorientation..fortunately the seas had not built at that time or a torch would have been needed..anyway we persevered and after that the moon came up making things workable...tonight will be not so easy..

We have total cloud cover and the moon not up anyway till midnight..we must have the boat set up for each wave so we will be using the compass light as a point of reference so all I can say is Bligh was a bigger man than me...we will try not to use torches tonight but will let you know how we get on..things are going to get tricky tomorrow too as we close Fiji...last night a few times we thought we heard pounding surf but nothing,,,

We have had to Jibe a few times, tried to catch some water in one rain squall but got 1ltr with too much wind and only using the mizzen. Food has become uninteresting, days are now spent in our harnesses, pumping the bilge, sleeping,writing up the log religiously every hour, watching the horizon for anything unexpected, trying to keep dry, and stop chafe on the rig...we have some big marks on the mast ..have pulled a solar Panel connection out..and worst of all I have lost my spoon!! how could that happen..we also generate quite a bit of rubbish which is surprising..a few have felt a little off at times today..Dave W has been amazed at the while scene out here which is impressive but as usual impossible to catch on camera..

So it is now an hour from dark...something tells me this will be a tough night..I am on with Chris from 1800 to 2200..then again from 0200 to 0600...so no sleep tonight...a wave just crashed onto the dodger to remind me...

All is good and this is why we are here..everyone still laughing and the conversations are about food , holidays and Kupang at the moment...looking forward to some easy sailing sometime soon...see you tomorrow...DON

Monday, May 3, 2010

Up The Mizzen-Surfing to Fiji! @ Night

It has been a mixed bag today as we prepare for a night of strong winds.We had a taste last night of sailing in the dark without moon or torches and I have to tell you I did not like it. The stars were blocked by cloud so it was quite challenging in 18kts of wind.WE JUST HAD THE BIGGEST WAVE COME IN TO THE COCKPIT AS I WRITE THIS....WE WERE SURFING AT ABOUT 9KTS! Wind now 25kt SEs and 3.5mtr seas on the port quarter. We are planning a course change around midnight if the wind does not change directions but this will be a challenging night I reckon.

We have cut water back to 1.5 ltr, and realised our coconut balancing scales were a bit out and we have eaten too much for lunches so we will have half rations for a few days. Huge flying fish are all about and a few birds, blue sky with rain squalls about but none over the boat yet. We have had to pump out every 30 minutes today as water is coming into the cockpit so we are thinking for the first time it is a long way to Timor.

Today I had a vision for the first time of Bligh and his men in their boat in this same place - not a vision that I saw, more a case of actually thinking of the men and the boat in living colour, what they would have looked like etc. It was really strange but very interesting. Bligh talks of the cold often and it is getting cool now so it is wet weather gear at night and full harnesses. I have to admit that we have been so busy that we have not got rid of our modern watches and set up the pocket watches which is happening as we speak. It is amazing that so much is going on or we just want to sleep. There has been plenty of that which is a good way to go into strong weather if that is what lies ahead. I feel good about the food. I am not weak and inf act have 4 biscuits in reserve not eaten yet! Never thought that would happen...

I am happy to report that all the crew have now christened the toilet and no real complaints other than when Chris went. We were sailing so fast that he scooped about five gallons of water into the cockpit and drowned his clothes of course.  So far our gear is reasonably salt free but we all know it is only a matter of time before everything is wet and salty...may that day be long into the future. The biggest discussion at the moment is the reefs that we know lay ahead and how the hell Bligh got through. We are thinking of slowing up during the night and going flat our during the day so we can see..that will all be happening in a few days.

It has begun but we are all feeling a little ????? what is up ahead as we are having fun at the moment. There is a saying that you eventually have to pay the Piper! We all have plenty on our minds but for now it is all fun and anticipation. I am off to climb the mizzen mast as the nav light is wobbling around for some reason. The big danger for tonight is getting hit by one of the huge 30cm flying fish that are zipping airborne all around the boat - that would hurt....Don

Sunday, May 2, 2010

"Keep Smiling Thru-Crew"(or as happy as little babies)


There is one thing every sailor dreams of..a few days of good weather to settle into the boat once you set off..we hit the jackpot!..it is unbelievably beautiful out here at the moment..everything is perfect..temp 24, blue sky with fluffy clouds, one mtr sea, 10-15kts SE wind and we have been sailing at 3-5kts all day..we are 40 miles out to the west from Tofua still visible on the horizon and there is no water coming onto the boat...we have all our sails up the fishing gear out and seriously involved conversations all day..life is good...

Yes we are feeling a little guilty that we are actually enjoying this immensely!

Both Dave's have gone off some of the food..last night we had our first tin of beef..Quilter just said no...Dave Wilkinson tried but immediately spat it over the side..Chris and I are all smiles. Quilter has declared he will be Vegan till Restoration Island..Dave think we will have his share..

We are on two litres of water a day b it as of tomorrow we go back to 1.5ltrs a day. We have about 60 limes onboard, native to Tonga and have one a day each..I put mine in the water, Chris eats his as is.

Dave Wilkins ..WILCO was the first to try the toilet onboard and came back with glowing terms, the Bidet effect goes right up your back and between your legs so the paper would never have worked anyway.Lunch today included 50 grams of Prunes and the discussion for awhile moved onto the laxative effect of our ships biscuits even.

So we have checked our know log, a small board we throw out on a rope with knots on it, time 15 seconds then count the knots to give us speed...very accurate.I took my first noon sight, so that was ok but been too relaxed to work it all out yet...to much to enjoy all around..will do tomorrow.

With the South East wind we have decided to head due west and keep the boat moving rather than head North west to Fiji. It will change latter hopefully. We are using the hour glass that His Majesty the King of Tonga gave us which is a bit of fun for us all..we have 6 hours on and 6 hour off watch during the days and 4 hours on and 4 hours off during the night while conditions are so good. Chris is very happy with so much sleep as he says he can do that for 18hrs !!

We did our blood checks today and I was the only one with lower Glucose levels..also our Urine tests "Dick Sticks" are giving us all sorts of interesting information...but today it came up with us all having blood in our urine?? laughs all round but that is what it says!!

It was so good last night when we were finally on our own even though it has been a BIG help having there camera support boat for the past 11 days..Mark the skipper of IANTHE and the Diageo support team we fun and supportive. They ended up on less water rations than us..1 ltr a day..too many showers so we felt very good.

It will be dark here in about one hour so time for water rations, dinner and getting organised for the night..we cannot use torches.

Talisker Bounty Boat is looking and feeling bigger right now...we are getting into a system and everyone is at the moment respecting our own spaces. This may change as we get further into it but only time will tell. Something tells me it is going to be a great night to be on watch. How long will it last?

Margie paged us this morning to say the tracker was not getting up onto the web site..all is well here and we know the signal is getting out so hopefully you will see us trucking along soon...wish you were here!!
Don

"Leaving Tofua after 27 years of Planning"


At Dawn tomrrow we are off! it has been a long time coming and we are humbled by the number of people following this Adventure..thanks for all the emails and messages of good luck..I feel like you are wishing Bligh good luck too. It is starting to get very spooky knowing that Bligh really was here just 221 years ago..that is not long when you think about it!

We moved anchorage again today as the wind shifted to the SE, did a few jobs for final preperation, stock takes of water and food, safety gear checks and looked at what lay ahead. Everyone has differing emotions, I just want to get going now as do all the others, but to my surprise Dave Wilkinson confided that yesterday he was having some seriously mixed emotions about the whole trip..but now was ready to go, He was not worried about any one thing , just a realization of the magnitude of what we are all about to do and how tough it will be.Standing an anchor watch all last night we were uncomfortable trying to sleep, there is not much room. Dave thought the water was making him sick, then he felt the food was making him sick. He had headaches which he conceeded could be caffine withdrawls so he was not having fun. At 2.30 this morning I found him filling his water bottle when he should not have been.We are on strict rations . It was a missunderstanding as he did not pick up that we are only filling at 6am and 6 pm with Chris incharge of filling.

It was really good to talk with Dave about his whole rollercoaster of emotions. He is a straight talke. I like that. He said he could have killed someone yesterday..you would never have guessed it. Quilter and I were really surprised.

So we have the most amazing crew...Quilter/Dave Pryce my mate who can do anything, Chris who has taken on huge responsibilities and all the ribbing you can give a cabin boy!! and is as strong and committed as any of us...and Dave Wilkinson the perfect Gentleman who keeps us laughing with his one liners..and ME!..you can decide...Something will happen in the next seven weeks and I really have no way to suggest what...I just know it will.

For me this started 27 years ago...now I am dreaming of the finish...Don

"Sweet Dreams & Strong Smells at Bligh's Cave"

Hah, i'll write up a better blog this time, now i'm much more awake. As soon as I came off watch I was out like a light for hours. I have the nice ability of being able to sleep anywhere if I'm tired, so that helps with the cramped sleeping conditions under the bounty canopy. Hong Kong Dave is the only one that snores and luckily we never sleep at the same time, so his chainsaw-like snoring, while really annoying, helps keep you awake when you need to be.

Okay, from my upside-down position contorted around kit with drips falling on my face i'll pick up where I left off yesterday. So yeah, Kelefacia, it really was a stereotypical tropical paradise, as everyone has said in their blogs. Though it was pretty obvious most of the bounty and diageo crew were getting sick of lingering in that one place. But to be honest, I was content just hanging around and relaxing. Everyone else seemed to be worrying about the days to come, so much so they missed out on some peace of mind. I read, watched a few films, swam in the clear sea and had a wander around the island. It was awesome. And it was a nice ease into the situation being able to live off the support boat, Ianthe, which lessened the blow when it came to leaving.

Apparently, Dave (who was voicing his apprehensions at that time), found it insulting that I wasn't stressed in the slightest and started whining at me. Pointless really. It just seemed to make him more stressed. Made no difference to how I chose to use my own time. And most importantly, it interrupted my film. Which, by the way, was Forest Gump. Sweet film, go watch it if you haven't already seen it.

Even Stuart was a bit of a douche and started shouting at me because I took "too many sweets". It's hard to convey how uncalled for his reaction was, though at least after his childish tantrum he reverte back to acting his age.

Anyway, so we sailed up towards Tofua. Our first proper sail, which was a nice release from the unnatural motion of being towed along. It wasn't even a large distance, only twenty miles or so. Yet it was well into the night before we got close to the island. We just circled till morning, waiting for a chance to land. Fully boring, but it had to be done.

Don probably filled you in on what we did yesterday, but I'll sum up. Tofua looked so spectacular in the daylight, I was so eager to get ashore and explore. Whereas Quilter and Wilco were more interested in just bolting to Fiji. Still, we stayed and I got my chance. A bunch of locals offered to show us the way to the cave Captain Bligh found shelter in when he landed here all those years ago. "20 minutes" Said rudolf, one of the locals - to my dismay his nose was not red. A good hour's trek later, we arrived at a spot a few hundred foot from the cave. What they hadn't mentioned is that the final hurdle was descending a sheer cliff, just with a short stretch of questionable rope. It wasn't even rocky either, no firm hand holds, it was just a mix of loose dirt and roots. The kind of dirt that just shifts and slides under your weight. Still, nothing like a dangerous trip to kick off...and even more dangerous trip. To be honest I hadn't even planned on heading down the last stretch in the first place, I was just going to pass Stu some camera gear he'd left at the top. But seeing as I'd gone down halfway by the time I reached him, I just thought "Ah well. In for a penny. In for a pound."

I don't know if it was the wisest decision to expend all that energy, but seeing as the "starvation rations" we have actually fill you up, I wasn't too bothered. I really did expect to be a lot hungrier, still, not going to complain over being well fed. Come to think of it, if we're sharing out this food in the wrong amounts, it'll be hilarious if one day we realise there's nothing left to eat...

Hmm, just lost my trail of thought, the smell from Quilter's toilet break made me gag.

So yeah we're heading off for Fiji tomorrow and i'm quite happy to be leaving now as there's not much else we can do with our time here. I couldn't really be in a better frame of mind. I think it's partly due to being able to get a good night's sleep. I have extremely lucid dreams, so even though I don't have a lot of my own space on Bounty Boat, the solice from a dream is enough to keep me level-headed. Sleep deprivation is now my biggest concern, as it looks like there could be plenty of that in the future. But, if I just keep doing what i'm doing, this'll be a sinch.

Adieu
Chris

Saturday, May 1, 2010

From the First Sea Lord of the Royal Navy.



Transcript of letter from the First Sea Lord of The Royal Navy

Admiral Sir Mark Stanhope KCB OBE ADC

Ministry of Defence London.

CNS/1/2/6

Mr Don McIntyre

Talisker Bounty Boat

29 April 2010

Dear Mr McIntyre,

I wanted to write in support of your remarkable venture to re-create William Bligh’s epic 4,000 mile open-boat voyage, after he and 18 of his ship’s company were cast adrift following the mutiny in Her Majesty’s Armed Vessel BOUNTY. I have no doubt that what lies ahead will test you and your team – not just your navigation and boat handling skills, but your mental and physical stamina and, occasionally, your sense of humour. Much has changed in the last 220 years, but the challenges of mastering the seas remain the same.

Your voyage, under the conditions which Bligh and his crew endured in 1789, serves to remind us that determined men can achieve extraordinary things. It also serves to raise funds for, and awareness of, vital research into Motor Neurone Disease, a devastating condition for which there is presently no cure.

It will be obvious to everyone who follows the progress of your adventure that you and your intrepid crew have courage and ambition in equal measure. You deserve every success and my Navy Board colleagues join me in wishing you fair winds and following seas.

Yours sincerely,

Mark Stanhope